Buenos Aires and El Tigre

Buenos Aires is built on the banks of a huge river that runs all the way to the ocean.  This provides a superb natural harbor so the whole history of the city is built around the Rio de Plata.  The commerce that it created and the old neighborhoods still are part of the fabric of the city.  Today they have revived the riverfront into a park with shops and restaurants, paths to stroll along and high rise apartments. This is Puerto Madero and the Calatrava  bridge that is pedestrian only.

The bridge represents tango dancers.

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The harbor view

There are many waves of immigration and many colorful neighborhoods.  This is some of the interesting mix of architecture. 

The old La Boca area is now a full fledged tourist destination, well preserved and it shows part of the old city's heritage.  Street musicians jive and tango dancers flick their heels in every cafe. 

Trying to get a group photo organized is not easy.

Always a favorite is the food market.  This one is in the old area of San Telmo where they hold the antique market every Sunday.  Supposedly all the vendors have genuine antiques that are at least 30 years old.  ????

Even in the tourist places....life goes on.

One of the fun shops in St Telmo.

                                                       El Tigre

El Tigre art museum. 

The next day we headed off to El Tigre named for the Puma's that used to inhabit this area.  We drove through the posh suburbs of Northern Buenos Aires.  Then by boat we visited El Tigre, a group of islands in the river delta where people have weekend homes.  Like all boat places it is really funky and all ingress and egress is by water.  The boat may not always come because the water level rises and falls with the wind that drives the water ahead of it.  A place to learn patience.

Listening to our guide.  Her excellent English and good information are a real asset.

A home in an exclusive suburb.

Peeking into a lush tropical private garden.  

In El Tigre rowing clubs abound and the water is full of people getting their exercise.   Rowing clubs are very prestigious in BA as well as out here in El Tigre.
Work it girl!

Waiting to receive guests.

Everything is done by boat from the ice cream boat to the groceries to this ambulance.

One of the exclusive rowing clubs.

After a day of exploring we parked our cameras, dressed for dinner and went to the Tango show.  I think they are required when visiting BA but food was surprisingly  good and the show was great.  Considering it is one song, one dance and they do it over and over it is very entertaining. 
http://www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar/index.asp?seccion=lugar_historia&idioma=i


                                   A day at leisure in Buenos Aires.

Have a breakfast beer

Watch the dog walkers

                  Strolling the street fairs and markets.

There is shopping with great boutiques everywhere.  Gary and Jim shopping.

Jim still shopping .

A leisurely lunch at La Cabana on the river.  Guess what their specialty is? 

Ah wine and steak, not first nor last.




A stroll along the river to wear off lunch. 

We are getting ready to leave Buenos Aires for Uruguay so it is time to contemplate our expectations versus our reality.  We had heard BA is a beautiful city - and it is.  They say it is the Paris of South America and that is probably somewhat true because it is so very European in feel plus the heavy French  architectural flavor.  However it is not Paris.  It is still a South American city and it is neither as safe or welcoming as Paris.  Crime is a problem plus they don't have the business attitude that makes us feel at home when we go to Europe.  
The difficulty in making reservations helped make the decision to use Aliwen and it was the absolute best thing we did.  We had pre-paid all hotels, tours, and transports so that everywhere we went we were in private cars which  minimized the use of credit cards and ATMs.  No where else in the world have we been held up for so many credit card fees, including some government fees. Only in South America, on both our recent trips, have we been nailed by credit card thieves.  This is not a reason to avoid going, just to be aware and use the service of a travel company to buffer this situation. 
 The one time when we were on our own, with luggage, in a cab coming from the airport we were in the process of being robbed when our hotel attendants chased the thieves off.  This was set up by the cabbie. We did laugh, when all was over and we had all our luggage, at how disappointed they would have been.  We all adhere to the bring cheap clothes and pack light theory.  In all those suitcases they would not have taken one thing of value.  Save for a few bottles of wine.
None of this would deter us from going again nor did it bother us to the extent that we did not have a wonderful time. The people in the travel industry were without exception fantastic, helpful,fun and dedicated to making our stay memorable. The good things of the city are our memories and the others are lessons learned.