2009 Lavagna to Rome

Lavagna

Next stop is Diana's cousin Renata and her husband Franco and daughter Stephania.  We left the Shippys in Santa Margherita while we spent three days with the Minis.  Wonderfully warm and welcoming people; plus Renata has the reputation as THE best cook in the family.  
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lavagna



                                                       Genova

Franco and Renata are natives of Genoa and now live in Lavagna in retirement.  This is their old neighborhood in Genoa.  We got two wonderful day-long tours of the city with two guides who love their city and are passionate and proud of all the history associated with Genoa.  There are wonderful old cathedrals and lavish palaces.  It is a city that shows the wealth of being a maritime power.  Sitting on the sea, the steep hillsides have breath-taking Mediterranean views.

This is a bit sneaky.  Looks old, but it was a movie prop now a tourist attraction.

Waterfront area has fantastic aquarium and entertainment venues.  It is a focal point for the city.

10:30 a.m., it is time for prosecco and a snack to pick us up.  A little something to bridge between breakfast and lunch.



Must we export everything!



                                                           Hidden Gardens

                                                                     Great art

This is the golden palace that is now a board room for a private bank.  We are quite sure that it is not open to the public.  Franco wanted us to see it.  I was very suspicious as the cleaning woman led us up the back elevator and she skipped off with 5 euros tucked in her apron pocket.  I think what Franco wants he figures out how to get.

Funny, this is a Dallas travel agency

                            
                            Just some of the grandeur of Genoa

                                                         Oldest church in Genoa

An older resident

Every church has a bombe that fell through the roof and did not explode in some war or another.  Proof God is looking after his houses.

Sestri Levant   http://riviera-cinque-terre.org/cinque_terre/sestrilevante.html.  A really wonderful spot.

               Franco doing a Sarkozky impression.   Trying to stand on tip toes to look taller.
.

 Furia's mountain house where we convene for lunch of fried zucchini blossoms and lots of wine.                                                                                                      

              

That is a good corkscrew

A special lady

Renata is Furia's daughter and Furia is Diana's father's niece.  Diana's family has been a wonderful bonus and we feel honored to have been included in their lives.  Franco and Stephania speak good English and Renata speaks as much English as I speak Italian.  So it is challenging for the bilingual folks to keep everyone involved in a conversation.

There was a hunter in the family




View of Portofino from Franco and Renata's apartment

 

Franco knows how to honor the fresh truffle we brought.  We thoroughly enjoyed drinking these prize bottles from their cellar.  Pasta with a little butter and oil and the finely shaved truffle and this wine. Ambrosia.

 Pure Franco

Shippy's in Portofino and Santa Margherita



Portofino



El vino de giorno

Italians love their beaches and the country is blessed with them everywhere.

11:00 again

Bella spiaggia

Famous photo oppoturnity.  But, then, Portofino is picture perfect.

New friends can be found easily

I win!!

Hotel in Santa Margherita

Back together the four of us are on the road again this time to Parma via the Cinqueterre.

Our Mercedes is a great ride.  We bit the bullet and paid the freight for an automatic transmission.  It was pure bliss.  After the car we rented in France that bucked all over the country this made the journey a breeze.



Via Amore



A picture is worth a thousand words, or maybe more.

11:00 AM

On via amore couples put locks on fence instead of carving intials in the rocks.

The five villages tumble down the hillsides into the water.  There are gardens and vinyards terraced by mountain goats.  No cars,everything comes in by carts. One persons roof is his neighbors garden.  The hills are laced with hiking trails.  Hiking through vinyards with breathtaking vistas of blue ocean and tiny villages.  What is not to like about that?

              PARMA, noted for some of the best food in ITALY .

The drivers were getting good at sliding the Mercedes into tight spots.

Our timing could have been better because the Verdi festival started the day we left.  Parma has the highest per capita income in Italy and the sylish people walking the streets give evidence to that.  It is also the home of Verdi so there was much preparation going on for the festival.  We had some great pizza on the street.

Opera House

Travel buddies

We were all amused by the very fashion forward women on their bikes.  No helmet, short skirt and some had 4 inch heels, pedaling away.  Secret tip, cobblestones make even superskinney people jiggle all over when riding a bike across them.

This is first time we had thick crust pizza in Italy and it was so good.

The places we stayed were selected mostly with the help of Tripadvisor and this little country B&B was well reviewed.  It was clean, hard to find and $50 a night.  Our last morning there they served us a typical farmers breakfast.  A bottle of Lambrusco wine, fresh bread and Crudo, cured raw bacon.  We also had one of the weirdest experiences I have ever had travelling.  Really cannot explain it.  After a really long drive we went to a small Tratorria nearby and decided to turn in early.  Gary and Charlene were playing cards in the living room and Jon and I had gone up to read in bed.  The owner came in asked them to move to the kitchen and then all sorts of people came as if to a party. They went into the living room.  After a few minutes there was a weird chanting coming from the living room that went on for a long time. Gary and Charlene scurried up and locked the door to their bedrrom, we all put our heads under the pillows and hoped for the best.  We were not sure we weren't about to be sacrificed. The owners daughter only said her mom was having some of her friends in.  That seemed strange as almost all the people were in their 20's. We have no explaination.

       I don't know if Charlene posed for this because of the meat or because of the wine.

Drive to Maranello 

This is the home of Ferrari and the Ferrari museum.

Enroute we stopped at El Castello per La Regina.

We were encouraged to stop here by locals.  It was good advice.  The Queens castle with the tower of light.  The little village is also the home of the famous opera diva, Renata Tebaldi.  Walking through the beautifully painted rooms there is a sound system pouring Tebaldi's arias through the Castello.  No crowds, great weather, fantastic music, can there be a  finer moment.?

Castello's have views.

                    
                       Marenello
        The home of Ferrari and the Ferrari museum
This is Jon's dream so he is in heaven and Gary is not far behind.  The girls even  enjoyed   it because the museum is very interesting and so well done.  Great day all around.

This I would drive anyday

                              PROFESSIONAL DRIVER AND A RIDE OF A LIFETIME!

Driver is standing on 3 foot tall wall .  A Ferrari is not one of Jon's comfortable to get in and out of cars, however some things are worth the pain.

                                                         BOLOGNA

We are hosted by more family.  Diana's sister Julia is married to Kekko Valente and his sister and cousin live in Bologna.  We all said we were game to try something different. They suggested rubber rafting on the river that runs through Bologna.  We  got the picture on the right and not the true picture because the river has been covered over since the 1300s and it is very much like a sewer.  I am sure Serena wasn't sure what we were getting into either.  Things like this get funnier and funnier as time goes by.

We are going down there

Marielena is laughting real loud because she is not going.

Ahh fresh air



GAME FACE




By now we know this was going to be a great story




SERENA AND MARIE ELENA (MARIE ELENA IS EXPLAINING THAT NO WAY IS SHE GOING DOWN THERE)



 
                  We are all game and not very smart so down we go into the river.

THAT IS NEXT BOAT LOAD- EVEN KIDS KNOW THIS IS CRAZY

After we got out of the boat trip we go back down to take the walking tour with our flaming torches.  Chatty Kathy was our tour guide. She went on and on in Italian and our translator, Serena, was getting very,very queasy so her translation was failing.  Oh did I mention it does smell rather rank.  You get the picture.

After we finally escaped we ran to the restaurant where Marie Elena was waiting  and cleaned our throats with lots of wine and great food.  If it is one thing Bologna has it is great food.  I am not sure everyone would like the river tour; however, Bologna is a great place and should not be missed.

The best food in Italy is served at home and Marie Elena served us a wonderful dinner at her home.  The girls knocked themselves out to show us a good time and we appreciate them so much.

Next day we went into the countryside and up to a gorgeous cathedral on top of the hill overlooking the city.
They also showed us the river before it goes underground in the city. 
No matter the highlight or lowlight of our stay was the river rafting.  How many people can say they have done something like that.  Lovely views from the church of the city.

                                                               MONTALCINO 
 Next day we picked up car and drove to Montalcino a perfect hill town in Tuscany.  Heart of brunello wine country so more great wine and great food.  Gary also set the record of 4 gelato cones in one day.

Our home in Montalcino



Say CHEESE!  Aged Pecorino.

One day we went to Pienza considered one of the most beautiful hill towns in Italy.  How does one make that selection?

Tuck a little spot to eat anywhere

We fell in love with this family.  It seems wherever we went they went.  Well mannered adorable kids.  We must all be getting homesick for our babies.

The family story

             I love this photo in Pienza.  Life in italy in one photo.

                                            Breakfast at the B&B in the heart of town

Do you ever stumble on something that is surprising?  This church from the time of Charlemagne was like that.  Tucked in a quiet valley, when standing outside the walls we all felt a wonderful sense of peace.  Maybe it was the bucolic setting, maybe there is something sacred in the hundreds of years of worship.  Whatever the reason this was a place I am glad I saw.

Ancient Roman hot springs and baths were on this site. Today modern spas surround these warm mineral rich waters


Back to town for a farewell lunch at the restaurant rated #1 by all locals.

That is Luciano the Magnificent

TIME FOR THE DRIVE TO BRACCIANO AND THE END OF A GREAT TRIP

      Took the coast road and stopped in Puerto Ercole for lunch. View from our table.  Really more like a picnic bench outside a bar.  Another pretty spot on the sea.

Great bartender

Charlene and her tokens.  She gave them out for tips with a funny story and to kids with another story.  Telling them they could have a wish from Texas.  It was very cute.

11:00 AM somewhere

                                                                    Bracciano
                       http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/lazio/bracciano.html  

                                                                     Our villa
                                   

Gary and Charlene's last meal in Italy this trip is the best kind, home cooking.  Linguine e vongole.  We are at Kekko and Julia's and they are super cooks, great hosts and dear people.

FLAVIO

MANLIO



OUR TERRACE.    RINSE!  RINSE!  MOTTO OF ALL TRAVELERS 



Big and juicy and they plopped and smushed all over our car.  We learned not to park under that tree.

October 9 and Flavio and Jon share a birthday

Baby Julio on walk in Parco in Roma for the kids school

Manlio and I had a ball looking for wild bears.  Never did catch one looking at us.



Oh boy am I tired

                                   Keko, Julia, Jon and I are off to do the Scavi tour.  It is fascinating.

Lunch at one of their favorite places and we got trapped by a rainstorm so we had to have another bottle of wine.  Hate it when that happens.

New batch of arrivals.  My cousin Mary on her very first trip to Europe.  Sunday lunch on lake.  My sister, Helen, came with her.

LOVELY JULIA

AH, GELATO

        


                                                                     Ostia Antica             
http://www.ostia-antica.org/

Yes, this would be 2000 year old bar and we feel right at home.

   I like this, shops on main floor home above.  Good ideas seem to be timeless.

        Next arrivals are Amy and Lee fresh from Positano and Capri and a few days in Rome.

      Castle in Bracciano.  Here Tom Cruise married Katie Holmes.  I think maybe it was famous before that too.

Time for a farewell family dinner.  Hosted by Kekko and Julia at their home.  There is no better place to eat in Bracciano.

Helen loves hugging Italian men

This is the end of this trip but not the last trip to Italy.  Mary and Helen were off to Orvieto and Florence and Jon and I and Amy and Lee headed home.