Sunday, September 30, 2012

Liguria. Franco and Renata

We take an early cab to Milano central train station and a leisurely ride right to Chiavari where Franco meets us a few blocks from their home. We spend only two nights so our visit stays close to home but when home is Portofino, Santa Margarita, the Cinque terra, Sestri Levante.....well what more can we say.


Of course ......Portofino


It is 11 AM so time for an apertivo






This is the entrance to the Camelia villa where we stayed when we first came to Portofino years ago. The entrance leads to a tunnel about 100 feet long that ends in an elevator that rises through solid rock to the garden of the villa.  Very dramatic way to enter.  Talk about first impressions.



Portofino and Santa Margarita


Marina at Lavagna




Church in Lavagna



Porticos in Lavagna





Very old tower



Buying tomatoes and grocer adds some greens for free as a thank you. A very traditional custom.





Sestri Levanti



Portofino is one of the most beautiful places on earth but every so often nature provides some dramatic enhancement.


Monday, September 24, 2012

Milan

                                 Milan


Simoni mets us right outside Malpensa in the madhouse traffic but thanks to texting  we direct him through the tourist buses so as he drives up, we dash out. Having such wonderful people to host us is an incredible privilege. Simone and Angela are dear friends of Brad and Diana's plus Simoni is a hunting pal of Jon's. A glass of wine around the corner and then we are off to a fantastic quaint Milanese restaurant out in the country where they do all the ordering for a great meal.


The segundi is veal Milanese. Like chicken fried veal. No gravy.



Simoni, Angela and Davide


They live in a building owned by Angela's parents so they give us their apartment and move in with her parents across the courtyard. That is hospitality beyond expectations.



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The courtyard and her mom and dad are in the large apartment, then her sister is in one and her uncle has his art studio in one and her cousin and his family in another. We are very near the city center.

Sunday we spend touring the sites. The Galleria, the Duomo but with a twist as they take us to the roof top (there is a lift). Wow. It is breathtaking. A garden of lace made of stone. Pale pink marble carved exquisitely with hidden courtyards peopled with wonderful statues that can only be seen from above. Jon and I are always marveling that there is something that is new and amazing to see. Wine on terrace across the street at the top of an elegant department store and then, lunch, a rest and a stroll in the park with the rest of the locals. This is a perfectway to see Milano.


Davide twirls on the bull's privates for luck. Very Italian





Kids perfect play car in the Ferrari store












Monday we go back to the city center and see a very prestigous Picasso exhibit right next to the Duomo and then we are off to lunch at a wonderful courtyard restaurant with great food. Sitting under a giant umbrella the skies open and the rain that has been threating pours down. We get a complimentary glass of wine and sit there cozy and happy. How to explain to our hosts that rain is a delight for Texans as is the cool overcast weather. In the evening we stroll the canal district of Milan designed in the 1300's that still flows smoothly.






This is where people would wash cloths by pounding them on rock ledges.


A wedding reception was going on in the museum.



The restaurant





The rain pours down.



Today we say goodby to our delightful hosts. They have been the epitomy of graciousness and hospitality. Knowing people such as Simoni and Angela is a privilge.

However before we leave they have one more person to introduce us to. Giampietro Maggi is Angela's uncle and a famous Italian artist. His studio is across the courtyard and here he still paints and his new passion is small wooden pieces painted with doors plus his new favorite hobby and that is golf. The larger pieces are not for sale but I managed to talk him out of one. Like everyone else in their family he is warm and charming. Angela's parents live below him and they also are lovely although no English makes it difficult to express our appreciation.



This is a portrait of Giampietro's teacher done when he was 18.



Tuesday morning we travel to spend a few days with Vittore Fattore, a friend of my uncle David and aunt Joanne's since 1960.He is 81 and a sweet brilliant man. He studied under my uncle so only the brightest were able to do that. He plays tennis three times a week and was leaving on a cruise to Greece and Israel on Friday. We visited some of the sites near his home on the edge of Milan on Tuesday and then on Wednesday he drove us to Como Lake to visit the villa of Anna's family. It is directly across the lake from Bellagio and is in the center of the village with a lot of land. The family still uses it for holiday despite the fact that Vic's two daughters and their families prefer their place on the seaside near Genoa or the flat in the Dolomites for skiing. Like all Italians if they go somewhere on holiday, they buy a place to live in. Homeownership in Italy is 80%. Most if possible own multiple homes.




Vic's apartment






This is lovely old monastery near his home.





Vic has two daughters. Lavina and her husband Alessandro and two children Guilia and Fredrico, and Paula.




Lavina had us all for dinner on Tuesday night. This is Paula and Guilia. Paula's son lives in Rome with his father. She works two days a week in Rome and rest of the time in Milan so it works out okay.



The local market

Why only Italians should drive in Italy



Jon is practicing the parking payments


In Mezzagra where villa is located



Opening the door



Villa Rosetti


The lower garden. There are 4 tiers climbing the hill behind the house including one with an old grotto.




Fireplace mantel says 1701



Living room door unto front terrace and Bellagio across the lake



Ceiling in the living room and the standard behind the Roman says 1706.


Vic's favorite spot when he is at the Villa.




The vegetable garden and beyond it is about an acre of olive trees that belong to the villa.


Bellagio across the lake



He wanted to show us where Anna is waiting for him to join her. A very emotional moment. It is obvious how very much he misses her.This spot is on the hillside overlooking the lake and is the family crypt.



The family church

In 1945 Mussolini and his mistress were resting in a small house owned by Anna's family when the partisans found them and took them a mile down the road and shot them. They were afraid to turn him over to the allies for fear they would not execute him so made sure he was properly taken care of..